Mon Languedoc-Roussillon

Languedoc-Roussillon, which largely matched the modern region of Occitanie into which it’s been absorbed, is a place of wild variety, from the peaks and valleys of natural parks to the lagoons along the coast, with gentle wine country in between. We asked Laurent Graell, born and raised in the area and now working for Domaine de la Dourbie winery, to pick out some of his personal highlights from an almost endless list of possibilities.

Laurent Graell

Languedoc-Roussillon local –
Laurent Graell

I was born and raised in Languedoc. After several years abroad (York and Australia), it was only natural that I returned to Languedoc, with its wonderful energy and exceptional places. What I love most is the soul of this region, its rich culture, and its diverse landscapes between land and sea. Life here is both gentle and wild at the same time. There’s something for everyone, of all ages. It’s a place that has (still) remained pure. Of course, its gastronomy and viticulture make it a fantastic playground for the gourmet in me. 

Do

  • As with most of France, you have to visit a winery or two while you’re here. St Chinian, Faugères and Roquebrun are all lovely and our very own Domaine de la Dourbie of course! We run very popular “immersion” tasting experiences and wonderful summer picnics
  • There’s some lovely walking along the coast and in the countryside nearby but also in the Haut-Languedoc Regional Natural Park, like the loop from Aigues-Vives, a lovely little village, that follows the course of the Cessière. Or around Lake Salagou, Cirque de Mourèze and Saint Guilhem le Désert
  • You can swim in the Hérault and the other little rivers in the area, in plenty of spots. I could tell you a few, but the joy is really in discovering one near wherever you happen to be!  

Eat

  • Café de la Poste in Aspiran looks like something from a film set, with its upstairs doorway in a corner with the old, shuttered stone buildings around it. It serves classic French food and does it very well
  • There are two places I love in Pézenas – De Lauzun and Le pré Saint-Jean. The former has a simple bistro alongside its Michelin-starred offering and the setting, an old priory, is beautiful. The latter has slightly more colourful styling, but both serve fabulous food
  • In the small town of Sète, perched on a narrow strip of land on the far side of a lagoon, looking out to sea, there’s a lovely place Tielles Giulietta that does great lunches and cakes, perfect for breaking up a day of strolling and watching the boats going to and fro. 

See

  • The view from Mont Saint Baudille is spectacular. The walk up is about 12km and there’s not much shade, so it’s a spring or very early summer morning activity, but really worth trying
  • There’s a beautiful old village called Bages, just down the coast past Narbonne on the shores of Étang de Bages-Sigean. The saltwater lagoons in the area have trails and boardwalks through them, places like Doul pond where you can swim, some with quiet beaches and a lot of birdlife
  • Further down the coast, almost into Spain, is Collioure, with colourful buildings on the waterfront and the famous lighthouse. It’s a place that’s inspired artists for many years. 

Featured places to stay in Languedoc-Roussillon

Mas de Mahystre - Gallery

Mas de Mahystre

Saint Côme & Maruéjols, Gard

Getting around

For me, Spring is the best time to visit, with the weather more pleasant, landscapes in bloom and far fewer people around. September and October bring the harvest season, it’s still warm and there are fewer tourists than summer, although if you do come in summer you’ll find lots of lively festivals taking place, which can make the crowds worth braving. It’s a great place for biking and walking, with the Canal du Midi path, vineyards trails, and coastal paths, as well as the GR long-distance footpaths and places like the Cévennes National Park. 

 

Getting there

By Train: 

Eurostar London to Paris then transfer to Gare de Lyon by either RER D train towards Melun or Malesherbes, or Metro line 4 to Châtelet, change at Châtelet to line 14 TO Gare de Lyon. Possible onward journeys include Montpellier (3h30) and Beziers (4h), from which taxis or buses can take you to smaller towns and rural locations.  

By Ferry:

Unless you have a very long time to kill, this is not the way to get to Languedoc from the UK!  

By plane:

Montpellier and Nîmes, served by many UK airports, are the most likely entry points. You can rent a car from major cities of course, but be aware of narrow roads in rural areas and parking limitations in old towns. 

Top tip!

While you can rent cars easily enough, consider using public transport, as many of the roads in the area are very narrow, especially in the old towns, and parking limitations can make driving a frustrating experience. 

A few days in…Languedoc-Roussillon

With tips from Laurent, a few suggestions from the owners of our places in the area and some thoughts from our team, we’ve created a four-day itinerary for Languedoc, taking in hammock-swinging in a winery, towering rock formations, headless saints and more. 

Read more >

Foodie guide to the South of France

In her new book, Amuse Bouche, writer Carolyn Boyd takes you on a gastronomic tour of the regions of France. In the south, she samples Calissons in Provence and spicy peppers in Basque country, while also discovering the humble origins of the salade Niçoise. 

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