These walks go between two of our lovely pubs or B&Bs, with overnight stops at both ends meaning you don’t have to worry about leaving at dawn to reach the trailhead or getting all the way home after a pleasantly tiring day. We’ve listed transport options for going completely car free where possible, or for driving to the first pub, walking to the second and getting buses and trains back to your car the next day. Given the paucity of rural buses at the weekends, most of the walks are easier to access if you take a day or two midweek, which also generally means lower hotel prices and quieter trails. Remember to map your route fully, check transport on the day, prepare for all weathers and have a great time strolling through glorious countryside from one cosy pub to another.
The Peddars Way
Route: approx 15 miles
The Peddars Way begins inland, near Thetford, with an arrow-straight Roman road section, but by the time you pick it up from The White Horse at Brancaster Staithe, it’s turned east and become a twisting coastal path that winds its way between marshes and dunes. The 15 or so miles to The Harper in Langham are a long, but scenic stroll through wetland bird habitats of international importance, with almost no elevation to trouble your thighs. It passes through very little in the way of civilisation too, which is a huge plus in many ways, but means it’s definitely worth taking a well-stocked backpack of snacks. Your starting point, The White Horse, leans into its waterfront setting with a subtle nautical theme to the décor and dramatic views that give you a taste of the landscape you’ll be walking through. At the other end, The Harper awaits with a jacuzzi, pool and the elegance of a chic spa hotel to soothe tired limbs.
Getting to and from
A combination of the 36 Coastliner, CH1 Coasthopper and the 46 can get you back from The Harper to The White Horse in a couple of hours, although as ever this is only during the week. Getting from London to the start point by public transport involves a train to Peterborough, another to the King’s Lynn Interchange then the 36. Coming back means getting the 45, the 46, then the train to Liverpool St from Norwich, meaning you could add a visit to the cathedral to your trip.
Across the Howgill Fells
The Black Swan to The Black Bull
Route: approx 12 miles
The Howgill Fells are often overlooked by people heading for its more famous neighbours, The Yorkshire Dales to the south and The Lake District to the north, but there’s some spectacular walking to be had there. A hike from Ravenstonedale to Sedbergh covers around 12 miles and takes you past Cautley Spout and under the broad peak of The Calf. It’s a serious hike, with climbs and tough terrain that make it a full day as you follow, then climb above, some beautiful valleys.
Fortunately, two pubs are perfectly positioned for a sendoff and a rewarding finish. The Black Swan in Ravenstonedale, on the north edge of the fells, has old country charm and a low, stone-walled bar, while The Black Bull in Sedbergh to the south, shines with contemporary style. Both take their food seriously, so you’ll be sent off with a superb breakfast from The Black Swan and arrive at The Black Bull in time for cocktails and the innovative German/Japanese fusion cuisine of Nina Matsunaga.
Getting to and from
The S5 and 563 buses are your best bet for getting back to your starting point. A combination of the two takes you between the pubs (almost to the door of both) in a couple of hours, although weekends services are limited. It’s possible to do the whole thing by train too, even from London (Euston to Oxenholme, change for Kendal, then get the bus). You’ll need a day at each end for the journey and again, it’s much harder at weekends, but not having to drive makes the whole thing more relaxing in other ways.
The Cotswold Way
Route: approx 15 miles
You can take almost any section of the Cotswold Way and be guaranteed a hike that’s well-balanced between flat stretches, gentle inclines and climbs to wonderful viewpoints. Starting from Forthay B&B, just south of Dursley, means you join the trail after the big ascent of Stinchcombe Hill, giving yourself a little time to warm up before scaling the rise to the William Tyndale Monument. You follow streams and sunken woodland tracks through Wotton-Under-Edge and Alderley, then pass by Horton Court as you veer off the trail and head for Yate, where you come to a happy rest at Moda House.
The B&Bs at either end are both classics of country house charm and finishing in Yate gives you a chance to explore the quiet market town in the morning, pottering around the shops before heading off home.
Getting to and from
The Y8 South Glos Lynx and the 60 bus are the simplest combination to get you back to Forthay, but there are other, more complicated methods that might be better at certain times. The T1 Lynx, for example, also connects to the 60 but goes through north Bristol, taking a little longer than the above plan.
The Lowther Loop & The Ullswater Way
The Queen’s Head Askham to the The Brackenrigg Inn
Route: 20 miles (but with possible boat shortcut)
The Ullswater circular is a simply magnificent trail, which gives you stunning views of every angle of the beautiful lake and takes you past the famous Aira Force Waterfall. It’s hilly, but easily navigable and popular, making it a rare blend of challenging hike and sociable stroll, as people pick off different sections of the full circuit. From Askham, you start off on the newly created Lowther Loop, sticking to it for a couple of miles over Askham Fell, from which you look down on Ullswater before joining the trail around the lake.
If the full 20 miles feels a bit daunting, you can cut the corner when you get to Glenridding by taking one of the Ullswater Steamers. In twenty minutes, you skip five miles of walking, hopping out to marvel at Aira Force and leaving yourself only five miles to go. Your starting point, The Queen’s Head, is an incredibly well-preserved 17th-century inn, all worn beams and wattle, on the Lowther Estate in Askham, serving a fabulous breakfast that’ll fuel you for the fells. Waiting at the other end, The Brackenrigg Inn was recently taken over by the team at Another Place, the fabulous lakeside spa hotel, so as well as the use of those facilities to ease the aches in the legs, you’ll have rooms of sumptuous style and food to match, the perfect end to a day of hiking in the Lake District.
Getting to and from – at the weekend!
The best thing about this route is that you’ve taken the long way round and left yourself a very easy journey back. You could walk the couple of miles to Pooley Bridge, or take the 508 and be back in five minutes if you’re done with hiking. It’s also one of the easiest to do completely car free, with the west coast train service taking you from London to Penrith in a few hours and the 508 taking you the rest of the way. The 508 (and the trains) even run at the weekends, meaning you could head up to The Crown on Friday night, walk to The Brackenrigg on Saturday and get back on Sunday afternoon.
Stay at The Queen’s Head Askham >
The Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Penally Abbey to the Stackpole Inn
Route: approx 12 miles
This short section of the epic Pembrokeshire Coast Path sends you past Barafundle Bay, Manorbier Castle, the Freshwater East Nature Reserve and the crumbling Stackpole Cliffs, with plenty of opportunities to dip down onto the sand for a rest if you need it. Four long flights of steps make some of the climbs easier (or harder if you prefer to vary your stride a little) and the views every step of the way are magnificent.
Stylish Penally Abbey makes a great departure point, with a superb seasonal menu for dinner the night before and the quiet grounds for a warmup stroll as you get ready for the big walk. The Stackpole, waiting for you at the other end, is the sort of place you don’t worry a second about turning up to in muddy boots. The relaxed feel and friendly staff will have you settled with a well-earned pint and a menu in hand in moments, and your room upstairs is a cosy spot to fall into a pleasantly exhausted sleep.
Getting to and from
A combination of the 387 and 349 buses, or the 388 and a train from Pembroke Dock to Penally can get you back in a couple of hours during the week but about twice that on Sundays. Trains to and from Penally Abbey also run at the weekends, with changes at Swansea and Reading taking you to London in around six hours.
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Christopher Wilson-Elmes
Sawday's Expert
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