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Our favourite agriturismi in the green heart of Italy: the sublime Umbrian countryside

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Carmen McCormack

Guest Expert

5 min read

Umbria is renowned for its beautifully preserved, medieval hilltop towns, perched dramatically on verdant green hills flecked with wildflowers and grazing livestock. Etruscans, Romans and Renaissance artists have all left their mark; discover jaw-dropping beauty and awe-inspiring history at every turn. Many of Italy's traditions live on in Umbria: grandmothers still make pasta by hand, organic meats are cured the old-fashioned way, biodynamic vines produce delectable wines, olives - often picked and pressed the same day - become award-winning oil. Staying at an agriturismo gets you closer to these traditional methods of growing, preparing and cooking with first-class ingredients. Most offer tours, tastings and the opportunity to get stuck in with harvests. Alternatively, you can be as soporific as you like and simply lounge by the pool until dinner time.

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Agriturismo La Panoramica Gubbio

There’s a feeling of space and peace all the way up here with views that tip away across open countryside to medieval Gubbio. Secluded outbuildings are set higgledy-piggledy on different levels in mature gardens with colourful pots of flowers and tempting places to laze on hammocks or cushions. Living spaces aren’t huge but they are inviting and comfortable with deep sofas. Some have fireplaces and all have their own outdoor space for eating and relaxing and well-equipped kitchens for prepping. There is home-produced organic olive oil, honey and jam available to buy. The teardrop shaped pool, shared by all, is lit up by solar lamps in the evenings. It’s incredibly quiet, surrounded by hectares of fruit trees, olive groves and beehives. No road noise, just birdsong. Join in the communal vibe or keep yourselves private, ask Susanna about cookery classes or yoga, unwind.There are grand walks straight from the door and horse riding nearby.

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Agriturismo La Corte del Lupo

A smartly restored farmhouse, on the side of a gentle hill, with beautiful views. Marcella, Massimiliano and Andrea live in a separate house on site and are passionate about growing and concocting delicious food for their guests (try half-board: it includes Andrea’s liqueurs). Bedrooms, spread across the first and second floors all have views, some have balconies. They’re functional and comfortable with simple bed linens on country-style beds. Cosa fare: what to do? Book a mountain bike tour or a cookery class with your hosts. Must-see cities include Assisi, Perugia, Spello, Gubbio, and there are the hill towns like Montefalco where you can savour those dry, earthy, Sagrantino wines. There’s ping-pong under the portico, a garden laid to lawn and a pool with a view. But the food, organic, local and seasonal, is the thing: imaginative, beautiful, and served with much smiling at white-clothed tables.

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Agriturismo La Fonte

Deep in the Umbrian hills near Perugia, a family estate with a lake, waterfall and space to roam. The main house where the family still live dates back to the 1700s; you stay in one of two converted buildings, one nearer the house and the other down by the lake. You look after yourselves but Marco and Paola are always on hand and will pass by each morning to see if you want freshly baked cakes, homemade yogurt, eggs, fruit and vegetables. Living areas are cheerful and comfortable with super views over the valley, kitchens are compact but well-equipped and bedrooms are beamed and simple. A very generous welcome pack includes pecorino cheese, salami, a bottle of wine, and their own olive oil. Paola can cook your evening meal which you eat on the terrace. Borrow mountain bikes for hilly exploring, take a picnic and hike to Monte Tezio – a three hour round trip.

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Il Fontanaro

Lucia and daughter Alina are passionate about their higgledy-piggledy farmhouse and its fruitful estate: producing organic honey, lemons, award-winning oil (picked and pressed the same day in their own mill) and wine is a way of life. Book yourself onto Alina’s cookery classes, join one of the harvests (olive, grape, saffron), sample wines in the cellar, nod off beneath the umbrella pine. Tucked down a winding lane near the hilltop village of Paciano, you’re greeted by big smiles and flowing hospitality. You stay in one of two apartments in a restored estate building complete with view-filled terraces – over the vineyards, the valley, the infinity pool. Make pizza in the bread oven, or enjoy an evening barbecue. Pick peaches still warm from the sun, gorge on fat tomatoes, catch the scent of the roses as they romp over arbours and clamber up trees.

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Agriturismo Val di Boccio

This is a special place for those who love fresh air, great food, and the sweet hills of Umbria. Discover games, animals, and a beautifully landscaped pool – imagine diving into that on a hot day. The farm sits on a hillside strewn with olive trees, oaks and laurels. The main building houses the B&B, the attached building has two apartments, and all is simple and spotless. Dinner – a fixed menu with plenty of wine – is a highlight. Lucia prepares rustic, generous, Umbrian dishes brought to long tables. Outside or in, it’s lively and fun. Massimo and Lucia are smiling and welcoming. Take the scenic route to Assisi (45km); you don’t have to be religious to be struck by its beauty. The nearest town is one of Umbria’s oldest – hilltop Gubbio, a half-hour drive. Plan an autumnal hike in Monte Cucco National Park (35 km), and return to a roaring fire and gaze at magical dark skies.

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Carmen McCormack

Guest Expert

Carmen is a freelance writer specialising in travel. She once lived in a bus in north Wales, skipped off to study in Barcelona, and now calls Bristol home. When she’s not tapping away on her laptop, she can be found reading (a lot), lake swimming (a little), and pottering on the allotment with husband and two kiddos. She’s currently dreaming about cold cerveza and torta in Mexico.

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