Short stomps and hearty hikes into cosy Northumberland pubs

Along the Pennines to the Lord Crewe Arms

Few inns can beat this atmospheric refuge perched in a pretty village on the moors’ edge. It’s perfectly positioned for venturing into the wild and rugged North Pennines AONB. Head to the bar where you can pick up OS maps and a list of favourite walks before setting off. You’ve got options to try part of the Pennine Way or follow the River Derwent up on to open moorland. On fine days you’ll spot much bird and wildlife. Return to cosy up in front of a crackling fire, eat in the lofty dining room, or sip a drink in the atmospheric bar hidden in a medieval vaulted crypt. They have their own Lord Crewe Brew on tap, as well as some pretty moreish bar snacks, otherwise known as Northumberland tapas. Bedrooms dotted around the cottages are a treat with divine beds and deep baths.

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To Dunstanburgh Castle and back to The Jolly Fisherman

Set off from Craster village car park through the sand dunes and over open farmland to the atmospheric Dunstanburgh Castle. It’s a gentle 2.6-mile round trip with long views of the rugged coastline. Finish up with a slap-up meal at The Jolly Fisherman, a cosy dog-friendly gastro pub with wild sea views over the castle ruins. Specialising in fresh seafood, they get first dibs on just-caught hauls, so slurp crab soup, Craster-landed lobster or a plate of Lindisfarne oysters. Everything is made from scratch and they have a wide selection of local ales at the bar. If you time it right you could be eating as a spectacular sunset sinks over the horizon.

Stay at Brunton House & Cottages, a big dower house and two cottages surrounded by superb gardens, a fishing lake and acres of glorious countryside, a short walk to the coast.

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Kielder Forest trails from The Pheasant Inn

This old-world inn with open fires, cosy rooms, local and garden-grown food is just the place you hope to chance upon after a blowy walk. With the magnificent Northumberland National Park all around and Kielder Forest on the doorstep, you’re spoilt for choice. Kielder is awash with trails shooting off in all directions, try the 27-mile Lakeside Way Trail that runs, you guessed it, around the lakeshore and is a dreamy route for walkers and cyclists. Reward yourself by propping up the bar with a house ale in hand or tucking into Robin’s hearty food: souffle and pies, cracking roasts, fruit and veg from his bountiful patch. Let the dog snooze at your feet. Bedrooms in the old hay barn are light and airy, cute and cosy, and great value for money.

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Tidal crossing to Holy Island from The Crown and Anchor

Reached only by a narrow causeway, Holy Island is a tiny tidal outpost that gets cut off from the mainland twice a day – remember to check the tide times before setting off! Those in the know understand that the trick is to arrive before the tide comes in, so everyone else leaves and you get the island to yourself. The rewards are rich: deserted beaches, shy roe deer and basking seals, varied bird-life and spectacular sunsets. Stroll along the rocky coastline to 16th-century Lindisfarne Castle, perched high on a rocky outcrop, and remodelled by Edwin Lutyens in the early 1900s. Pick up a plant from the Gertrude Jeckyll garden, visit the ancient priory, built by monks almost 1400 years ago, then revive with a pint and a pie at the characterful Crown and Anchor inn.

Stay at Bottle Cottage, where walkers and cyclists will enjoy being on the edge of the Northumberland National Park AONB in this village cottage with views.

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Dramatic coastal scenes and the Bamburgh Castle Inn

Seahouses is a charming fishing village and gateway to the Farne Islands. You can catch the ferry over to watch the puffins in action and breeding sea colonies swooping and diving or set off for a bracing coastal walk to imposing and dramatic Bamburgh Castle. Built around a powerful 11th-century Norman keep, the castle played a key role in the border wars. Since its 19th century restoration, it has been home to the Armstrong family. Each year they welcome thousands of visitors who come to gaze in awe at antique furniture, suits of armour, priceless ceramics and artworks crammed into the rooms and chambers. Round off your day at award-winning Bamburgh Castle Inn for a superb meal, all homemade and seasonal with a decent kids’ menu and options for veggies and vegans.

Stay at Keeper’s Cottage, an 1820s cottage with long views, a lovely garden and generous extras. Alnwick is close and miles of white sandy beaches with dunes.

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