Inspiration

Four slow travel routes through Sicily to savour

Sawday's Expert

5 min read

Our Italy expert, Nicole, shares the sights, flavours and four great routes to explore, that she found on a recent visit from her home near Rome to the dark soil and striking slopes of Mount Etna. From vineyards to pistachio farms to medieval castles, Nicole shares the places to pause and savour the best of Sicily.

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Mount Etna, Castiglione di Sicilia, Bronte

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The area north of Etna, between Linguaglossa and Bronte, is a previously overlooked part of Sicily which has rightfully been receiving attention recently for its mineral wines, stunning landscapes, sleepy historic villages, and formidable local food. The slow and authentic mode of travel kicks in perfectly here, with the possibility of abandoning the car and taking advantage of scenic train routes, which run round the circumference of the volcano and are integrated with a comprehensive bus network. Thanks to the unique combination of lava-enriched fertile soil, everything tastes better, from the abundance of fruits - peaches, kiwi, mangoes, oranges and lemons, to DOP certified pistachios, pine nuts, almonds. The milk from the sheep herds and cows grazing on the black slopes is deliciously rich and used in particularly fragrant cheeses such as Pecorino Siciliano Dop or the local ricotta, which renders the cannoli here the best on the island. The Argentata dell’Etna variety, made from the rare indigenous goat milk, is a real treat when you can get hold of it.

There’s no bad time to visit, but I personally feel it’s best to avoid the torrid heat and high tourist season in July and August. You might want to go for the cherry harvest, which takes place in June and July, when the fruit has ripened naturally. There’s a dedicated festa, called ‘La Ciliegia Gioiello dell’Etna’, which takes place in Sant’Alfio during the last weekend of June. For the best of the food though, October is the month, with the annual ‘Ottobrata‘, formally called the ‘Exhibition and Market of Typical Products of Etna’ taking place in Zafferana.

Whenever you’re there, you’ll find beautiful landscapes offering up feasts for your eyes and taste buds. Here are four great trips to keep you busy, and sometimes snacking, between meals.

1. Exploring the volcano on foot – UNESCO site national park

Etna is great for walking in any season, except July and August when the heat is extreme. From some viewpoints and in some seasons, you’ll see the white snow, the dark earth of the upper slopes, the green lower slopes and the shining blue sea all in one sweeping vista. Parco dell’Etna have made a great app for trail routes, but we spoke to expert local guide Rosario Vecchio about two of his personal favourites.

Walk 1 – From Valle del Bove to the Silvestri Craters

Duration: Approx. 4 hrs

Distance: Approx. 6 km

Guide Rosario Veccio – Mobile +39 3487581806 – rosariovecchio@gmail.com

The route from Valle del Bove to the Silvestri craters leading to the Schiena dell’Asino is one of the most well-known on Etna. However, heading off the beaten track will take you to a typical Etnean landscape characterised by volcanic sand and pioneer plants. Following paths only recently marked in the volcanic sand will lead you to the Valle del Bove, an enormous desert of solidified lava dominated by Etna’s summit, rising almost vertically from the valley floor.

It’s one of the most stunning views offered by the volcano, but it doesn’t end here. Continue along the ridge overlooking the valley and the latest eruptions, on the coarse sand leading up to the Silvestri Craters, surrounded by a typical volcanic landscape colonised by only a select few plants. A simple but striking loop over a varied route, showing not only the different phases and activity of Etna, but also offering a breath-taking panorama with a little bit of adventure!

Walk 2 – Sunset Stroll

Duration: Approx. 4 hours

Distance: Approx. 6 km

A loop around one of the most fascinating spots on Etna: the location of the last great eruption in 2002, described as ‘the perfect eruption’. Hiking through the lava flows from the 2002 eruption, you follow tracks among typical pioneer plants and areas struck with lava bombs, as well as walk around the edges of these spectacular lateral craters. If you time it right, you can watch as the sun sets and illuminates this lunar landscape before heading back to the car just before the light disappears. Along the return route, you’ll have time and enough light to visit one of the largest and best-preserved eruptive fracture systems on Etna.

2. Mineral wine tastings by train

An original and alternative way to discover the volcano Etna is a trip on the Ferrovia Circumetnea (FCE) train route – a historic train line opened in the year 1898. The Circumetnea is 110 Km long and runs around Etna, crossing several small villages at the foot of the volcano and offering stunning views of black lava rock landscapes so typical of the area. You can organize your own schedule and itinerary for visits by consulting the timetables and app here or, in season, choose an organized tour with guide.

The Etna Wine Train tour starts up for the season from April 2023, every Thursday and Saturday. To book tickets visit this website, or send an email to info@stradadelvinodelletna.it or a whatsapp message to 350 007 0848.

The price includes:

One return ticket by Circumetnea train
A dedicated guide
Transfer by wine bus to two wineries and to a historic village (Castiglione di Sicilia or Randazzo)
Two tastings in two different cellars each including: two glasses of Etna DOC wine and cheese and ham board with typical local products.

3. River walking & historic Castiglione di Sicilia

This is a truly inspiring day, immersed in nature, history, art and culture courtesy of local guides Isolani per caso.

Since its founding by Greek colonies in antiquity, Castiglione di Sicilia has been perched high on a rock overlooking the Alcantara river valley. It’s on this river where we start our journey, among lava ravines scoured out by streams. Nearby is the Cuba Bizantina, the best-preserved Byzantine monument in Sicily. After, we enter the river and set out on a refreshing trek in its waters, before emerging into the wine-making area, par excellence on Etna, where the vineyards cut striking geometric shapes into the landscape. We’ll get to know its history before finally arriving at the place where we’ll have lunch, as well as be served a tasting session of oil and local products. A brief but intense climb will lead us to the historical centre of Castiglione di Sicilia, recognized as one of the most beautiful towns in Sicily, characterized by its brilliantly preserved medieval origins. Here, we’ll walk among its monuments from where we’ll be able to enjoy the view of both the Alcantara river valley, and Etna, before arriving at the medieval castle for a tasting session. After satisfying both eyes and tastebuds, we’ll set out on an ancient track surrounded by a beautiful Mediterranean forest, which will take us back to our original starting point.

4. Bronte & The Pistachio story

The Pistachio plant (Pistacia Vera) is native to Western Asia and Asia Minor and was first introduced by the Romans into Italy from Syria in about 30AD, eventually finding its way southward to Sicily. The Bronte orchard area is rocky and steeply sloped with volcanic soil derived from the activity of nearby Mt Etna. The soil is dry and shallow, and the pistachio plant is about the only viable crop that can be grown. The pistachio growers of Bronte have for many years, used “in situ” grafting methods to establish a special plant from the root stocks that arose spontaneously and randomly throughout the rocky soil. The result is wide variations in the number of trees per hectare (50-500), pistachios which must be harvested by hand, and a product with superior characteristics, unique intensity of both colour (bright green) and taste.

One of the stops on the Circumetnea train route is Bronte, the capital of pistachio plantations, a controlled area with DOP – Slow Food certification where 90% of the production is based. Spend a half day exploring the ancient town and learn more about this fascinating plant and morphology, its properties, and its harvesting and processing methods with a visit to a pistachio farm for a tasting. This will be followed by a themed lunch at Fucina di Vulcano, where you simply have to try chef Sandro Rinaldo Chiù’s pesto di pistachio.

Featured places to stay near Mount Etna

Boutique B&B La Dimora del Castelluccio

Castiglione di Sicilia, Catania

From €200 p/n
Bed & Breakfast
2 rooms for 2

Palazzo Previtera

Linguaglossa, Catania

From €120 p/n
Bed & Breakfast
5 rooms for 2 - 5

Villa Edera

Viagrande, Catania

From €270 p/n
Self-catering
6 rooms for 10

Hotel Villa Schuler

Taormina, Messina

From €99 p/n
Hotel
31 rooms for 2 - 4

Casa Prefillossera - Palmento Costanzo

Castiglione di Sicilia, Catania

From €200 p/n
Self-catering
2 rooms for 4

La Fucina di Vulcano

Bronte, Catania

From €150 p/n
Hotel
9 rooms for 2

Browse all of our special places to stay in Sicily >

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Nicole Franchini

Sawday's Expert

Nicole grew up on the shores of the Great Lakes in cold Chicago, but the pull of her Roman father's heritage meant she always knew that Italy was her destiny. From her country home in the olive groves of Sabina, just outside the capital, she works on our Italy marketing, keeps in touch with members and tours the country on the lookout for beautiful new places to add to our collection, enjoying food, wine and yoga in equal measure if not at the same time.

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