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Five of the best walks on the Isle of Skye

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Christopher Wilson-Elmes

Sawday's Expert

5 min read

Skye is understandably lauded as one of the best places to visit in Scotland. The scenery is simply stunning, with a crisp clarity to the air and a richness to the light that make sunsets spectacular and turn any rise in the ground into a gorgeous viewpoint. It’s a hiker’s paradise, but an extremely popular one, in a destination that struggles with overtourism localised to a couple of areas. Some of these trails and beauty spots are simply unmissable, so it's worth thinking about visiting off season to dodge the crowds, but others give you much more chance of finding a little of that glorious hiking solitude.      

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Quiraing Circuit

You’ll probably find the opening section of this route thronged with a fair few people, but pushing on a little further takes you to one of the best walks on the Isle of Skye, a lesser travelled path that requires a little more energy and will definitely make you glad you’ve got proper footwear. The circuit starts from the crest of the road that runs between Staffin and Uig. From here you’ll wind between the eponymous cliffs, past the pyramidal peak known as The Prison and the lonely rock formation of The Needle to find yourself looking down pinnacle rocks and shining seas. The second half of the loop has some rocky scrambling and lands you back down at the road through a boggy squelch of marshy ground, but it’s well worth the time and effort.

Stay at: The Lookout, a light-filled haven for two overlooking Skye’s beautiful coastline. Tranquil sea views, contemporary interiors and wonderful walks await.

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Camasunary Bay

The Cuillin mountains are a jumble of sharp peaks on the south-west reaches of Skye. They offer some cha

llenging and dramatic hiking, but there are also easier routes that enable you to wander past the peaks at ground level without the risk or constant map checking that diving into them requires. One of these leaves from a layby on the road from Elgol to Broadford, from which it follows a gravel track all the way to the bay. As you skirt the high edge of a moor, you’ll be able to see a lonely white building in a meadow. This is a bothy, an open house in which you’re welcome to shelter from the weather and even stay overnight. It’s a great place to meet other walkers and take on some refreshment before you head back. The whole walk will take about three hours.

Stay at: Coruisk House, a remote restaurant with rooms, views and a fantastic line in treacle bread.

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Camasunary Bay

Skye fairy pools

This might be one of the most famous places on Skye, but that’s only because it’s absolutely beautiful if you catch in the right light. Depending on the season, the sun can take a while to come out from behind the surrounding hills, so don’t worry about making an early trip, because the joy of the pools is the sparkling chain they thread down the slope. If you’re here in winter, the frost adds an extra sparkle and there won’t be so many people around. The paths alongside the pools are well worn but narrow and with a couple of small bridges. It’s not a place for pushing a baby buggy if you’ve got one with you, but you can leave the hiking sticks in the car. You can also bring you swimming gear too. Access isn’t easy, but don’t be surprised to see people splashing about in the pools as you walk. You can also extend this route and take in the other Cuillin corries, again leaving the crowds behind you.

 

Birds and marshes from Portree

While it’s tempting to hug the coast and keep the sea in sight at all times, this slightly more inland route can add a bit of variety to your walking on Skye, although you do still end up with some fabulous coastal views. It starts from the Aros centre, an exhibition venue which is worth a look in its own right, as well as having a restaurant and cafe where you can fuel up or refresh. After setting out you climb through the shade of a tall pine forest before emerging to views of the bay below. After a gentle descent you find yourself walking along beside salt marshes which are great for bird watching with many waders and even sea eagles common sights in the area. Finally you follow the shore home, finishing with some of the classic coastline that no walk on Skye is complete without.

Stay at: Viewfield House Hotel, a fine old house packed with grand old things above Portree Bay in the middle of Skye – homely bedrooms, some huge, are a treat.

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Old Man of Storr

If you’re visiting Skye for the first time, you’ll almost certainly want to take in the sight of the Old Man of Storr, on the north east corner of the island. This is another spot that can be crowded in peak season, but while many walk to the distinctive lonely column and straight back down, there’s a longer route that takes you up to stand atop the rock face and gives you some of Skye’s most stunning views, out over the isle of Raasay. The path up involves some gully scrambling careful navigation and a tricky descent, but it’s a great way to take in one of Skye’s iconic sights without feeling surrounded.

Stay at: Viewfield House Hotel, a fine old house packed with grand old things above Portree Bay in the middle of Skye – homely bedrooms, some huge, are a treat.

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Photo courtesy of Connor Mollison

Photo courtesy of Connor Mollison

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Christopher Wilson-Elmes

Sawday's Expert

Chris is our in-house copywriter, with a flair for turning rough notes and travel tales into enticing articles. Raised in a tiny Wiltshire village, he was desperate to travel and has backpacked all over the world. Closer to home, he finds himself happiest in the most remote and rural places he can find, preferably with a host of animals to speak to, some waves to be smashed about in and the promise of a good pint somewhere in his future.
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