Inspiration

The Coastal Café Guide: Devon’s best beach cafes & restaurants

Kerry O’Neill Profile Image

Kerry O’Neill

5 min read

Everyone knows Devon has great beaches and great food, but not everyone knows how best to combine the two. Fortunately, Kerry O’Neill has walked the paths and tested scones and seafood all along the UK’s waterfronts for her new book, The Coastal Café Guide, which shares our ethos of seeking out and supporting smaller independent businesses. In this extract, Kerry shares the delicious delights she found in Devon, from rustic beach shacks to beautiful hotel terraces where you can dine in the sun then step straight down onto the sand.

Tagged with:

Beachside Grill, Saunton

Saunton’s sweeping sands are a sight for ocean-loving eyes. The Beachside Grill (outpost of the Saunton Sands Hotel) takes pole position at this prime swim, surf, and paddleboard spot. Flame-grilled Exmoor beef salad or a grill of the day, anyone? The mood is laid back, the flame-fired menu deliciously Devonian. Book an inside table or rock up for impromptu al fresco feasts courtesy of their state-of-the-art grill, where balcony seats overlook the surf, the smooth sands, and the rolling SSSI dunes. Surfers adore Saunton’s gently shelving beach, with waves and surf lessons on tap, while Braunton Burrows – part of England’s largest dune system – have UNESCO Biosphere status. Head north to Croyde or south to bustling Barnstaple. 

Stay nearby under the charming thatch of Speedwell Cottage

The Glorious Oyster, Bideford

Rock up at this culinary colour-bomb to fulfil all of your oyster, seafood, and ice-cream needs. This rustic beach shack will awaken your tastebuds with its famed fish-finger sandwiches, Bajan fishcakes, and herb and seaweed frittatas. Regulars even say it has a Goan or Caribbean vibe. In Devon! Imagine. Oyster virgins can try just the one; the initiated might slip down a dozen with a bottle of seaside fizz. 

Idyllic Instow is on the Tarka Trail opposite Appledore and has Atlantic views out to Lundy Island. This bright shack is tucked into its ‘sandhills’ (dunes). In the sun-shaded seating area, herbs and edible flowers thrive in old fish boxes. Fermented dressings and local seaweed are big on the menu. Crack into a lobster landed in Clovelly or sup a local gin in this friendly, sand-between-your-toes spot. 

Stay nearby in the waterfront splendour of The Royal George

Britannia @ The Beach, Kingsbridge

Affectionately known as The Shack, Britannia and its extremely fresh seafood (the stuff of local legend) are enough to make you beeline for Beesands. This ‘takeaway meets rustic, licenced café-restaurant’ is the brainchild of local fishing family, the Hutchings, who catch and then sell, season, and serve fresh local hauls from their water’s edge spot. Not bad for a business that started life in a bait store… 

A classic coast path stop-off, this local landmark on the shingle has views of Dartmouth and Start Point lighthouse. A 6km National Trust Trail packed with maritime history loops by, visiting the lost village of South Hallsands. Try the local lobster, crack into a crab, or squabble over a seafood platter. Inside bookings are essential but there is plenty of outside seating. 

Stay nearby in the cosy surrounds of Wellies & Waves 

 

Photo credit © Brittania @ The Beach

Gara Rock Hotel

Salcombe is a summer staple. Across the water, just below East Portlemouth, you’ll find Gara Rock. This cliff-edge hotel restaurant is just off the coast path and is well worth the winding drive in or the lovely stroll up from the Salcombe ferry. A 2016 reimagining (luxury from the rock face up) created today’s resort with spa, cinema, cocktail bar, and first-rate sleeps. Talented chef Paul Hegley now helms the kitchen which is at the heart of the hotel.

At lunchtime, avert your eyes from those exquisite South Devon views to order from Chef’s seasonal menu. For fine dining, the tasting and set menus offer a curated journey through the local culinary landscape (a ‘treat-to-self’ you won’t regret for a moment). For a more relaxed ambience, The Kitchen provides all-day dining. Try the smoked Devon eel from the tasting menu or indulge in some classic fish and chips, or visit the sun terrace to tuck into a crisp wood-fired pizza.

Stay nearby in the quiet countryside of Glebe Farm 

Photo credit © Gara Rock Hotel

Soar Mill Cove Hotel, Salcombe

Soar Mill Cove is within a walker’s paradise. Glorious views unfurl, cliffs loom, and secluded beaches beckon. This very family- and dog-friendly restaurant welcomes drop-ins to enjoy anything from coffee with cake to afternoon tea, lunch, or bistro-styled dining. It even has its own valley (studded with Highland cattle) in which to forage for foodie finds.

Mum and daughter Jenny and Becky head up this family-run staycation location. Jenny’s Gin Gravlax (with cove honey, samphire, and gorse blossom) is an excellent entrée. Long-standing head chef, Ian MacDonald, selects quality local seafood and produce, giving the restaurant a market feel; locals have threatened to revolt if his signature lobster dish leaves the menu. Boutiquey Salcombe is nearby as are the gardens at Overbeck; Bolt Head offers majestic views as you walk off dessert. 

Stay nearby in the 1820s beach house, The Old Guard

Photo credit © Soar Mill Cove 

The River Shack, Stoke Gabriel

We stretch the coastal limits only if you’ll thank us, which you surely will when alighting at The River Shack. It is a water’s edge diversion on the Dart for those seeking a memorable meal while visiting Dartmouth, Paignton, or Totnes. A family-run spot, it has a relaxed, rustic feel, with bobbing shoals of boats nibbling at the jetty below. On certain tides the water can cover the decks so bring your wellies! 

Will and Faye’s story is many people’s dream. Passionate restaurateurs, they saw the potential in this empty cabin and emailed the owner on a whim. The rest is happy history. The potted Brixham crab is a heatwave hit; dishes like smoked mackerel hash and fennel tagliatelle are worth a detour. Emerge from a canoe (spot the kingfishers) or drop in after a Duncannon Loop walk. 

Stay nearby in a brilliant conversion – North Barn at Whitestone Farm

Find a special place to stay in Devon >

Go direct for great discounts

Buy The Coastal Café Guide directly from their website before the end of April 2025, using the code Sawdays15 to get 15% off any individual books. Or buy a three-book bundle and use the code Sawdays10 to get 10% off the whole lot. 

Buy the book here >

Be the first to discover our newest places, and receive travel tips from our team of experts.

Sign up >
Kerry O’Neill

Kerry O’Neill

Kerry O’Neill is a writer and editor at Printslinger, a Bristol-based publisher of books that seek out and celebrate smaller foodie businesses. Its current guidebook titles are The Extra Mile: Delicious Alternatives to Motorway Services; The Coastal Café Guide; and 2024’s The Farm Shop Guide.

View more articles by this author

You might also like

Creating joy in every room: designing an eclectic Devon B&B

Christopher Wilson-Elmes

Christopher Wilson-Elmes

Sawday's Expert

5 min read

  • Community
  • Devon

Pocket guide to Devon

Carmen McCormack

Carmen McCormack

Guest Expert

5 min read

  • Devon