You drop down the hill, weave through mazy lanes, then pull up at this boutique hotel which started life as a seaman’s mission. It’s a lovely spot, the estuary lapping behind the house and a waterside terrace for dinner in summer. Inside, uncluttered bedrooms flood with light; expect good beds, goose down duvets and elegant fabrics. Most overlook the estuary, eight have balconies (some tiny), the view from the penthouse suite is hard to beat. Bathrooms are just as good: white bathrobes, free-standing baths, perhaps a walk-in shower. Downstairs, super food waits in the restaurant, so take to the terrace for a cocktail, then dig into some delicious local fare, perhaps river mussels with wild garlic and shallots, stone bass with fennel and artichoke, poached rhubarb with white chocolate mousse. Fowey is enchanting, bustles with life and fills with sailors for the August Regatta. You can take the ferry across to Bodinnick where Daphne du Maurier lived, then walk over to Lantic Bay for a picnic lunch on the beach. Breakfast on the terrace, with local boats zipping past, is a treat.
The hotel is right on the waterfront and the perfect place for a romantic break. We came to retrace childhood steps and neither the town nor the hotel disappointed in any way. Our room had a side view of the water - quite enough to get the seaside vibe - and was charmingly decorated with a great bathroom. We had dinner in the restaurant - lamb rump and cured sea trout - and the breakfast was great too with perfectly cooked eggs! We will definitely return.