A few days in… French Basque Country

Day 1: Biarritz – bright lights, big waves? 

If you’re looking for a day to settle in before you go exploring the wider area, a wander around Biarritz, which has a touch of almost-Riviera glamour, is a pleasant way to pass the time. Head down to the waterfront and cross the fragile-looking footbridge to Le Rocher de la Vierge, an iconic spot from which you get great views of the city and possibly a taste of seawater, if the waves are high enough to splash you as you cross.

Le Marche des Halles is a classic covered market where you can pick up some local produce and sample your first Gâteau Basque – a cream and (sometimes) jam-filled melange of pie, pastry and cake. The alternative to all of this, if you’re organised and active, is to skip a visit to town completely and head 15 minutes up the coast to Anglet. It’s a quieter place with a laid-back surfer vibe, where you can even take lessons if you’d rather ride the waves than brave the shops. 

Day 2 – Esplette – peppers and passes 

After hanging around town, it’s time to get out into the countryside with a visit to the home of one of the Basque Country’s lesser-known specialties, the Piment d’Espelette, a pepper protected by the same AOC classification as many of France’s wines and cheeses. The village of Esplette is the centre of production for the chillis and if you visit around harvest time, at the end of summer, you’ll see them strung in long bands across the houses. You can pick some up to take home, take a look inside the traditional Basque church and find a good place for a mid-morning snack, possibly another Gâteau Basque, as it’s pretty hard to resist.

To walk it off, head southwest about 45 minutes to another beautiful Basque village called Sare. Here, the Train de la Rhune can rattle you up to a mountaintop where there’s a monument to the Empress Eugenie de Montijo, who once climbed it, but there’s also a wonderful hiking viewpoint if you have the time. The climb to the height of the Lizarrieta pass takes about an hour and a quarter on a shorter trail, or 2hr 30 on the longer one. It’s well marked and takes you to a wooden platform from which you can see for miles over the foothills of the Pyrenees.  

Day 3: Bayonne – gardens, hot chocolate and ham 

On a map, Bayonne forms a continuous urban area with Biarritz, Anglet and other nearby communes, but when you visit in person, you find each has their own distinct character. Jews fleeing Spain in the 17th century settled in Bayonne and brought with them a product that would become the town’s passion – cocoa. It’s now famous for its production of chocolate and while you can find it in all possible forms, we thoroughly recommend heading for Cazenave, in the centre of town, to drink it. Their “sparkling chocolate”, served in trademark rose-patterned cups and topped with a chocolate foam, is worth the trip alone. Make that your morning stop and you’ll have plenty of energy for a stroll to the Botanical Gardens, and the cathedral, a perfect double bill of natural and man-made splendour.

If you’ve been keeping a good slow pace, it might now be time for a late lunch and for anyone who’s not a vegetarian, that means only one thing – Bayonne Ham. The legend goes that a boar wounded in a hunt fell into a saltwater stream and was later found perfectly preserved and crusted in salt, which became the signature style of the region’s curers. Local restaurants and cafés (Tarte Julie is a local institution) use the meat in their dishes, but the best way to try it is to get some slices from a specialist, some produce from the market and ham it up however you like. 

Day 4:  Cheese day  

You might think you’re too full of ham and chocolate for another day of food, but this is about more than sampling the many varieties of cheese that the Basque Country produces. The Ossau-Iraty PDO Cheese Route is a trail of producers, artisans and farmers reaching from Gourette in the east to Saint Jean de Luz on the coast, who all welcome visitors. At the various stops, you can do anything from exploring the production process and simple tastings, to chatting with shepherds in high mountain huts.

It’s not as formal and signposted as some tourist trails, which is both a blessing and a curse. On the one hand, you’re unlikely to be chased by a tour bus as you cycle or drive through the countryside, but on the other, knocking on a farm door and saying hello is an occasionally intimidating prospect. Throw yourself into it though, and you could end up with some fantastic, unique memories, as well as armfuls of superb cheese. 

Day 5: Pic du Midi – the starriest night of your life 

The Pic du Midi is a 2877m-high mountain in the Pyrenees, about two and a half hours’ drive east of Biarritz. While that might sound intimidating, we’re not advising you to get out your ice axes. There’s a cable car that goes right to the top, where you’ll find an observatory, planetarium, science museum and restaurant, all surrounded by staggering views of peaks breaking through the clouds below. Step out onto the Sky Pontoon, a walkway off the edge of the mountain, to feel like you’re floating above it all for a brief, heart-stopping second. With experiences, talks and shows in the various facilities.

It’s a wonderful place to spend the day, but an even better one to spend the night. Special VIP tickets include a room for the night, cocktails in the bar and a guided stargazing in the fabulously clear skies, with nobody but a few other guests sharing in the majesty of it all. Set your alarm for sunrise too, it’s not bad either.  

 

Day 6: Saint Jean de Luz – sunshine, beaches and not much else 

Even if you’re not the sitting still type, a day at the beach is sometimes exactly what you need, especially if you’ve been up all night staring into the Milky Way. Head back from Pic du Midi and veer south to the pleasant little town of Saint Jean du Luz, right down by the border. The long, sandy beach and calm, warm water are perfect for a lazy day of napping and sunbathing.

There are pretty buildings along the harbour, independent shops where you can pick up some souvenirs and, in the nicest way possible, not a great deal else. It’s a chance to relax, reflect on everything you’ve seen and done, and maybe, purely because you had a long night and need the energy, go for one last slice of Gâteau Basque. 

 

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