Inspiration

Clear Skye: Why off season is the best time to visit the famous island

Sawday's Expert

5 min read

If you haven’t been to the Isle of Skye, then it’s probably sat on your list for a long time. The island’s beauty doesn’t disappoint, but when the crowds flood in, the traffic and general bustle can cast a shadow over even Skye’s legendary golden light. Fortunately, with a few tips and even an app from innovative locals, plus a little summer sidestep, you can see a quieter, slower side of Skye. Here are a few tips for visiting off season and getting the time and space to appreciate the island at its tranquil best.

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Isle of Skye

Why would I go to Skye?

Because you love the outdoors. It’s that simple. Skye is absolutely beautiful and the main things to do there are walking and looking, or paddling and looking. For many years, artists and photographers have been drawn to the scenery, which seems to be bathed in a uniquely warm, buttery light, but we’d recommend leaving the camera at home or the phone in your pocket for at least one of the days you’re there. Let yourself just soak it all up.

Isn’t it always crowded?

Skye is very popular and while tourism is one its key sources of income, it is affected by the surge in visitors in a couple of specific ways. The roads can become very clogged up with slow-moving camper vans and tourists unfamiliar with the use of passing places, while areas in use for overnight camping often see a lot of litter left behind. Travelling out of season, in quieter times, makes your stay much more enjoyable and you can get around easier, spreading your business across the island, out of the centre.

But if I go in the off season, won’t everything be closed?

Actually, no. That might have been the case in the past, but a couple of local initiatives are helping open up Skye to year-round travel. The MySkyeTime app, developed by the organisation Skye Connect and the University of Edinburgh, encourages visitors out of busy areas by helping them plan their trip around busy periods. There’s also the scheme put in place a few years ago by Jess Hartwell, owner of Skyeskyns, who got together with other local businesses in Waternish and agreed to open all year. The resulting boost in trade has already encouraged others to do the same.

Where should I base myself?

This is another opportunity to spread the load of tourism more evenly across the island. Portree is a lovely place to spend a couple of days, but it’s also where the cruise ships come in. The far north and south of the island are genuinely much less visited, so consider spending some time there as well. Locals and owners we spoke to on a recent trip were keen to emphasise that it was more about how people travelled than where. Their motto was “stay longer, in fewer places”, so whether it’s Portree or not, take the time to get to know the area and chat to the locals.

What’s the best way to get there?

The bridge is easiest, but the boat is way more fun. The Calmac ferry leaves from Mallaig on the mainland, takes about 45 minutes and arrives in Armadale in the south. Booking in advance is essential and you’ll be rewarded with a scenic, dramatic crossing. The drive from Edinburgh to the ferry port takes around four and a half hours, with another hour required to take you over the bridge and onto Skye, so driving is more efficient, but you lose out on an atmospheric boat trip.

What should I do when I’m there?

There are simply countless walking routes, waterfalls and scenic spots on Skye. You can see our Slow Guide for suggestions on some of our favourites, as well as sailing, otter spotting and some great places to eat and drink. Our best piece of advice though, is to talk to the owners of the place you’re staying in. People who live on Skye love it even more than visitors do and they can all point you to a personal favourite walk or viewpoint. Get talking, it’ll totally be worth your while.

Any more tips?

Only one. Get up early and/or stay local. Skye takes some getting around in busy times. The roads are narrow and jam up pretty badly in peak season. The scenery is consistently stunning, but if you do want to go somewhere popular like the Old Man of Storr or the Fairy Pools, then try and make an early start. However, take some advice from locals and seek out the less visited spots that are equally beautiful. You’ll see the place devoid of the midday crowds and, even more importantly, bathed in a beautiful early morning light that Skye does better than anywhere.

Explore all our places to stay on the Isle of Skye >

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Christopher Wilson-Elmes

Sawday's Expert

Chris is our in-house copywriter, with a flair for turning rough notes and travel tales into enticing articles. Raised in a tiny Wiltshire village, he was desperate to travel and has backpacked all over the world. Closer to home, he finds himself happiest in the most remote and rural places he can find, preferably with a host of animals to speak to, some waves to be smashed about in and the promise of a good pint somewhere in his future.

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