Spring is arguably the best time to be on the French Riviera; the colourful flowers burst into bloom and they are celebrated by a number of festivals and events. Meanwhile, lovers of art, cinema and good food will be spoiled by places to visit before relaxing at the end of the day at a comfortable villa.
When life gives you lemons
Spring starts early down on the Côte d’Azur, where the sun can be warm even in February. One of the best places to kick off your holiday year is Menton, where the lemon harvest is in full swing. The annual Fête du Citron celebrates the local speciality with an extraordinary collection of huge sculptures made with citrus fruits. There are concerts and carnivals, visits to lemon groves and stalls from which to buy local produce. You can also shop in the lively market and food shops: fill your basket with products such as sweet lemon marmalade to eat with freshly baked baguette or lemon-infused olive oil to drizzle on grilled fish. For a day by the sea, pack a picnic and walk the coastal path around the Roquebrune-Cap-Martin peninsula, where the Mediterranean gently splashes against the rocks below the path. Tucked away in the trees is the Villa E-1027 aka Cabanon de Corbusier, an exquisitely designed cabin by Eileen Gray in the 1920s, and later owned and adapted by the Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier. It reopens to visitors in April.
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Nice to see you
Explore Nice before the summer crowds arrive and visit the many art galleries such as the Musée de Beaux-Arts and Musée Matisse. Later, venture into the narrow streets of the old town for its enticing shops and family-run restaurants serving specialities such as ratatouille and grilled lamb. Eating a main meal at lunchtime allows for relaxing evening meals back at your villa, such as Villa Alexandra and Villa La Calme, once the residence of artist Jean Cocteau.
As glamorous as your abode may be, there’s no need to be a slave to the stove because self-catering can be very easy in Provence: simply buy a tart from the boulangerie, such as the local specialities Pissaladière, Tourte aux Blettes or Tian, then set out a spread with olives, charcuterie and a baguette, then graze the evening away with a bottle of local wine to hand.
If you’re in Nice early in the year, then you’ll coincide with the carnival, which runs from mid to late February. Each year, the town is abuzz with a fiesta that features floats with huge comedic figures while others have impressive flower arrangements for the ‘Bataille des Fleurs’ parade. The theme for 2023 is ‘King of the Treasures of the World’ and it’s always fascinating to see how the artists interpret the theme for the floats.
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Gardens galore
While snowdrops and daffodils take their first peek in British gardens, down on the Côte d’Azur the flowers burst into a dazzling rainbow of colours. This spring sees the fourth edition of the Côte d’Azur Garden festival take place between 25 March and 1 May, with 17 specially landscaped spaces created in six different sites along the French Riviera: Antibes, Cannes, Grasse, Menton, Nice and Monaco. Of these destinations, Grasse will also appeal to those fascinated by the art of perfumery, for it is the French capital of this particular art. Visit the Fragonard, Galimard and Molinard perfumeries to find out how their sumptuous scents are made. The Mimosa Cottage has its own garden (complete with pool) and is an apt place to stay, as if you’re in the region in February, you can’t miss the bright puffs of the eponymous flower in gardens and throughout the countryside. The town of Mandelieu-Napoule has its annual Fête du Mimosa 8-12 February, so stay nearby at La Bergerie in Vallauris, a town known for its pottery – where better to buy a vase for your blooms?
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Art of the matter
There’s no question that the Côte d’Azur celebrates the finer things in life, from good food and wine to fashion and art. Those in search of the latter will enjoy exploring the museums and galleries on the French Riviera. Although the Maeght Foundation in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, is closed until July for refurbishment, there are more than 20 other galleries to explore in the narrow streets of this beautiful village. In nearby Vence, meanwhile, there is the Chapelle du Rosaire, devised, decorated and home to works by Henri Matisse. In Antibes, you have the Picasso Museum set in the Chateau Grimaldi, the legendary artist’s former studio. After days spent gazing in awe at both the artworks and the beautiful scenery, you’ll want to go back to a home from home to relax. Minoustan at Gattières is perfect for idling amid its own fascinating art works, or the Villa L’Escalinado with its secluded garden. Fans of art of a cinematic form may want to soak up the atmosphere that descends on Cannes each May during its film festival. Watch the stars on La Croisette, book tickets to see the latest new films and then, when it’s time to switch off, return to the comfort of La Bergerie de L’Aspe in Saint-Cézaire-sur-Siagne.
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