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Our favourite agriturismi hidden in Sicily’s bountiful and beautiful countryside

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Carmen McCormack

Guest Expert

5 min read

Sicily, the largest Mediterranean island, juts off the toe of Italy's boot, seducing travellers with its soul-stirring scenery. This sun-bleached island is all alluring scents, bright colours and magnetic life-force. Its sea, volcano and mountain vistas appeal to all; walkers will be happy clambering along the coast, through meadows or up volcanoes, whilst ocean lovers can plunge into the Mediterranean's most pristine waters. Deep within its vine and grove blanketed countryside are classic agriturismi, or farm stays, where holidaymakers can immerse themselves in authentic, rural Sicilian life. Tuck into sublime meals, float in sparkling pools, join cooking classes and harvests, then be lulled to sleep in deep peace at our collection of favourite Sicilian agriturismi.

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Tenuta Cammarana

Deep in Sicilian countryside, a beautiful walled country house, surrounded by acres of farmland and citrus groves. Book a wine tasting, enjoy splendid garden-to-table meals conjured up by the owners. Built in 1778 the house and estate has been in the family for generations. Classic, understated furnishings have charming touches while bedrooms are modest but modern, with small, spotless bathrooms. Rooms open to a shaded piece of garden or terrace with distant sea views. Roman mosaics, beautiful towns and stunning woodlands are yours to unravel; you could also hire horses from next door’s farm and ride to the coast – or picnic in a valley grove. Relax in the spa or book a massage. Start the day with a fresh Sicilian breakfast, end it with an exquisite dinner using recipes from aristocratic roots, focusing on ricotta, milk, vegetables and herbs from the garden, paired with excellent wines.

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Lagoverde Agriturismo

An agriturismo set in wild landscape in the Sicilian mountains with a colourful garden and pool. Adventurers will love the drive – from Palermo and the coast it’s an hour on winding mountain roads to reach the remote stone farmhouse, transformed into a guesthouse and vibrant restaurant. This is agriturismo at its best, a chance to live simply 600 metres above sea level, where lush flowers and abundant produce grow in the soft Sicilian climate. The Rinchiuso family are warmth itself – chef Lino knows and loves the food he grows and cooks. He will surprise you with his cooking; perhaps fresh greens from the garden, sautéed with sausage and tossed in homemade fettuccine. Grilled meats, vegetarian antipasti, Sicilian desserts and wines… a riot of delicious flavours, and you can sign up to cookery classes to learn how it’s done. Son Vincenzo gives guests fabulous tailored tours of local villages and food producers.

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Agriturismo La Casa di Melo

The heady smell of orange blossom on a warm breeze greets you at Lorenzo’s organic farm, where he and his wife live with five adopted dogs. Around the 18th-century farmhouse stretch the grounds: succulent plants, palms and oaks, cotton bushes and citrus trees fringe the large pool. Laid-back Lorenzo has created an alluring retreat with an appeal that comes from its disarming simplicity, artfully combining old and new: tiled floors, simple colour schemes, arched windows with shutters, exposed stone walls, vintage painted furniture… even a couple of rooms with no TV, and all complemented by smart modern bathrooms. Breakfasts (and dinner) are organic and vegetarian with lots of farm produce, from freshly baked bread to homemade juice and jams. Shops and restaurants are just a couple of miles down the road, Siracusa is within easy distance, bikes can be hired or stay put and soak up hazy views of the Hyblaean mountains.

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Terre di Himera

This hilltop country house has views of the Tyrrhenian Sea on one side and the Madonie mountains on the other. You’ll find it at the end of a bumpy dirt road leading to the archaeological site of Himera, a Greek colony founded in 650 B.C. Maria always greets her guests with some kind of treat – fresh orange juice and cake or a glass of wine with cheese. Breakfast is sumptuous – fruit from the orchard, ricotta cheese from nearby shepherds, homemade jams and cakes, salami and cheeses, served at wooden tables under a pergola surrounded by flowers. You’ll want to stay for lunch and dinner too. Rooms have custom furniture and doors leading into the garden. Stay put and have cooking lessons with Maria, or hike along footpaths in the mountains. You can drive to Cefalù in 20-minutes for beaches, seafood restaurants and boutiques; Palermo is 40-minutes away.

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Carmen McCormack

Guest Expert

Carmen is a freelance writer specialising in travel. She once lived in a bus in north Wales, skipped off to study in Barcelona, and now calls Bristol home. When she’s not tapping away on her laptop, she can be found reading (a lot), lake swimming (a little), and pottering on the allotment with husband and two kiddos. She’s currently dreaming about cold cerveza and torta in Mexico.

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